How to Create a Faux Beam: Part 3 of 3

The beam is done! The beam is done! The beam is done!!!!!!

It’s taken us a couple weeks, but we finally finished this challenging, but incredibly rewarding project. The beam looks awesome, if I do say so myself! It brings our house to life and adds that charm and character that our house was severely missing.

Remember the before picture of our house with that awkward ceiling lip thing? Here’s a reminder:

Well, awkward lip no more! Check out this before and after picture!

As a reminder, I have broken this project up into three steps to make it easier to follow along. Find my posts for Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

Part 1: Materials/Wood
Part 2: Banging/Nailing Together/Staining
Part 3: Installing/Finishing Touches

Here are the materials you’ll need for the entire project. I’ve highlighted the ones you’ll need for this third step in blue:

  • Mitre Saw
  • Finishing Nail Gun (I own and really like the Ryobi Finishing Nailer)
  • Finishing Nails (2″ for installation and 1.5″ for nailing boards together)
  • Wood (measurements will need to be custom made to fit your particular space)
  • Stain (I used Minwax Dark Walnut)
  • Polyurethane (I used Minwax Clear Satin Finish)
  • Foam brushes (You’ll want a handful of these so you can just throw them out after each use)
  • Staining pads
  • Wood Glue (I used Titebond)
  • Sandpaper
  • Trigger Clamps (I used this Dewalt Trigger Clamp 4 Pack)
  • Latex gloves
  • Metal strips
    • I bought three of these but you may need more or less depending on the size of your project. Also, given the chance to do this project all over again, I would’ve chosen thinner strips of metal. These were difficult to bend to the exact shape we needed.
  • Bolt Screws
  • Metal cutters
  • Spray paint for your metal brackets (I used Rustoleum Antique Pewter (Hammered))
    • *Update: I originally posted that I used the color Oil Rubbed Bronze. Since we made our beams so dark, we decided that the Oil Rubbed Bronze blended in too much. We tried it on one bracket and didn’t like it. We ended up choosing the color Antique Pewter (with the hammered effect) instead. It matches a lot of the brushed nickel in our house and really pops on the beams.

We started off by nailing in all of the pieces that did not consist of that “C” shape we talked about in previous posts.

Perhaps the best part of the installation process was watching my husband climb on top of the refrigerator to nail the beam into the wall behind our kitchen cabinets.

Next, we installed the “C” shape pieces. Remember these?


This took both of us since some of the pieces were very large and had to be shoved up into place.

If you measured accurately, it will not be easy to shimmy the beams up into the ceiling. Decorations will probably fall off your walls as you heave those beautiful beams up there so be sure to take everything off the walls. Clearly, we learned that one the hard way. Also, you will probably ruin your pretty paint job on your walls so make sure you have some spackle and touch-up paint handy!

We made sure to put the seams where the beams meet a half inch out from the wall so we could easily cover them with our 1″ brackets without the seam showing.


Here are a few photos of the beam before we added the brackets:

We bought strips of metal and used metal cutters to cut them into the exact length we needed for our brackets.

We then used a wooden block and some trigger clamps to hold the metal in place. Next, we whacked the metal with a hammer to create the bent shape that we wanted.

We placed the metal on top of a wooden block to drill our holes for our bolt screws. In our case, we did two holes on each side.

Additionally, we wanted the metal to look a bit worn so we bought Rustoleum Antique Pewter (Hammered) spray paint. The hammered effect makes it look more rustic.

We wanted industrial looking screws so we bought these fancy bolt screws from Home Depot:

Here’s what they look like on the beam!

And just like that, we have ourselves a rustic faux beam that cuts across our entire house and covers our awkward lip thing! Here are some additional photos of the finished product! Let me know what you think!


How to Create a Faux Beam: Part 2 of 3

Welcome back to Part 2 of “How to Create a Faux Beam.” Hopefully you found my last tutorial outlining what you’ll need for supplies along with some tips and tricks for measuring and cutting your wood useful. Did you take all your measurements? Great! Measure a second time to make sure! I’d hate for you to start cutting and realize you were off by 1/8″! Were you able to get all the supplies you need? Got your wood? Awesome! Let’s dive into how to bang up your boards to make them look more rustic and how to fasten them to each other to create that classic “C” shape you’ll need to install your faux beam. I’ll also teach you how to stain the wood and seal it.

As a reminder, I have broken this project up into three steps to make it easier to follow along. Find my post for Part 1 here.

Part 1: Materials/Wood
Part 2: Banging/Nailing Together/Staining
Part 3: Installing/Finishing Touches

Here are the materials you’ll need for the entire project. I’ve highlighted the ones you’ll need for this second step in blue:

  • Mitre Saw
  • Finishing Nail Gun (I own and really like the Ryobi Finishing Nailer)
  • Finishing Nails (2″ for installation and 1.5″ for nailing boards together)
  • Wood (measurements will need to be custom made to fit your particular space)
  • Stain (I used Minwax Dark Walnut)
  • Polyurethane (I used Minwax Clear Satin Finish)
  • Foam brushes (You’ll want a handful of these so you can just throw them out after each use)
  • Staining pads
  • Wood Glue (I used Titebond)
  • Sandpaper
  • Trigger Clamps (I used this Dewalt Trigger Clamp 4 Pack)
  • Latex gloves
  • Metal strips (I bought three of these but you may need more or less depending on the size of your project)
  • Spray paint for your metal brackets (I used Rustoleum Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze)

Step 1: BANG ‘EM UP!

Remember these pretty pine common boards you bought? You’ll want to lay them out and pick which side of each board you like the best. That will be the side you’ll want to face out when you build your beam. I chose the ones that had the most knots and grains in them in an attempt to bring some character to the beam. Next, decide whether the board would look best on the bottom, the left or the right side of your beam. Do you want the knots on the top or the bottom of the board? Maybe you’ll want to flip it upside down to show off these markings.


Now that you’ve chosen the prettiest side of each plank of wood, it’s time to rough them up! This is great if you’re having a bad day and can’t make it to a yoga class. I know you’ll find it as therapeutic as I did to just whack the you-know-what out of these boards!

Use anything and everything that will make a dent, scratch, ding, you name it! I used both sides of a hammer as well as a wrench. Make sure you only bang up the edges that will be facing out. If you bang up the wrong side, you won’t be able to glue it to the underside of the beam. You’ll also want to ensure that all your boards are roughed up uniformly. You don’t want one board to have a ton of markings in it and another to only have a few.

I’ve heard of people sandwiching rocks between two boards and jumping on top. I didn’t feel like going that wild, so I stuck to my common household tools. But hey, you do you.

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2016-07-10_235931962_297F9_iOS (2016-07-26T18_52_40.474)

Wasn’t that cathartic? And you didn’t even need to pay a co-pay! Okay, you’ve banged up your once beautiful boards and now it’s time to build your classic “C” shape seen here:


You’ll need three things for this step: a finishing nailer, trigger clamps, and wood glue.

Take the board that will be the underside of your beam and run some wood glue along one of the edges. Glue either the right board or left board to the underside piece and hold it together with trigger clamps. Use your finishing nailer to nail the pieces together while the glue dries. Repeat for the other side of the beam and hold the whole thing together with trigger clamps until the glue is dry. If you have big enough trigger clamps, you can build both sides and hold the whole “C” shape together at once.

It’s important that the wood glue not run out and drip down the sides of the boards once you glue them together. Simply put: you cannot stain over wood glue. As you can see, we didn’t realize that and one of our beams now looks like this:


So what are you supposed to do if that happens? Well, you have three options.

  • You could sand the glue off once it dries but I would not recommend that since it may change the shape of your beam.
  • You could tape the wood off before you apply the glue so any excess that runs out will spill onto the tape. This is risky, as it could still potentially leak underneath the tape.
  • My suggestion would be to either wipe it with a DAMP cloth or let the glue dry up and bead and then scrape it off with a razor blade. Wiping it with a dry cloth only spreads it deeper into the pores of the wood.

Heat and moisture in the air can cause the boards to warp a bit so make sure you keep them in a cool, dry place. It’s helpful to place a wooden block that is the same width as your underside board in the middle of your “C” shape so it is less likely to pull into itself as the glue dries. Position your trigger clamps against this block of wood for extra reinforcement.


Step 2: STAIN

Yay! You created your “C” shapes and you’re ready to stain your wonderful creations. For this project, I used Minwax stain in the color “Dark Walnut” to match our farmhouse kitchen table. Use a foam brush and wear some latex gloves so you don’t get the stain all over your hands. As always, make sure you apply the stain in the direction of the wood grain.

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It’s important not to rush the staining process. Projects like this that take so much time and effort can be really exciting and I know I’m often guilty of rushing through steps because I want to see the end result. Resist the urge to put a second coat of stain on your boards before the first one has fully absorbed. Stain is not like paint. You can’t just touch it to know that it’s dry. The stain needs to settle into the pores of the wood and that takes time. If it says to wait eight hours before applying polyurethane, wait eight hours. Always read the instructions.

Wait five minutes after applying each coat of stain and then use staining pads to wipe off any excess stain that has not absorbed. This is important. If you just let the stain sit, it’ll dry unevenly and look sloppy. Wipe the staining pads along the wood (with the wood grain) as though you were trying to wipe off all the stain you just applied.

You can get creative with your technique here. The more you rub, the more stain will come off. If you have a knot in your pine that you want to show off, for example, you’ll want to spend more time wiping away the stain in that area.


Step 3: SEAL

After applying two coats of stain, I applied two coats of Minwax Clear Satin Polyurethane. There is no fancy way to put this on. Just make sure your brush strokes go in the same direction as the wood grain.

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Here you can see the middle board has been coated in polyurethane and the side boards have not. The polyurethane not only seals the boards and protects them but the satin finish also also gives them a nice sheen without being too glossy.


Here are our final two beams! They are ready to be installed. Can’t wait to do it this weekend! Stay tuned for my final post in this three-part series next week where I will show you how we installed these beauties and how we created some cheap DIY metal brackets to spruce them up a bit.





How to Create a Faux Beam: Part 1 of 3

Welcome back, everyone! It’s been a dream come true to be able to share my tips and tricks with you all. Your encouraging words and positive feedback have been amazing. Thank you all so much! I’m BEAMING with excitement (see what I did there?)!

Today I’d like to teach you how to create a faux beam across your ceiling. A beam can add a ton of charm to an otherwise boring space. Since this is a multi-phase project, I’ll be writing three separate posts. This post will explain what materials you’ll need during this phase of your project and tips and tricks for picking out and cutting the wood. My second post will teach you how to bang up those beautiful boards to make them look more rustic, how to nail/glue your boards together, and what kind of stain to use. Post number three will walk  you through installing the beam and creating some cheap DIY metal brackets.

Part 1: Materials/Wood
Part 2: Banging/Nailing Together/Staining
Part 3: Installing/Finishing Touches

Here are the materials you’ll need for the entire project. I’ve highlighted the ones you’ll need for this first phase in blue:

Take a look at the photo below. I took this picture while I was standing in my kitchen (ignore the baby gate, changing table, swing, etc…having a baby sure does make it challenging to keep that HGTV feel throughout the home)!


Isn’t she the cutest little helper though?


Okay, enough shameless baby plugging. Back to this photo:


Notice that strange 2.125″ lip that our builder put throughout the house. I don’t know if this was intentional or if he made a mistake, but I always look at it and think that it looks weird. Don’t you?! Like, what is that?

My goal is to make this house look more like a rustic farmhouse so I guess it’s sort of a happy accident that our builder did that because now I get to cover it up with a beautiful, rustic beam (well…a fake beam, but nobody needs to know that except you guys)!

Most beams go across the ceiling (similar to this blog post that inspired us to do this in the first place) and are not interrupted by things like walls and door overhangs. My hope is to create a faux beam that will cover this strange strip while at the same time appearing to go right through the wall from one end of my house all the way to the other. Think it’s possible? We’ll see!

I know you’re probably half way out the door heading to Home Depot to get some wood because you’re so excited, but you need to put the keys down and go back inside and measure, measure, MEASURE! This is by far the most important step. As you can see from my incredibly high-tech sketch below, not all of the pieces that will need to be covered are the same dimensions on both sides due to jutting walls, closets/pantries, “ceiling things,” etc.


Okay, got your measurements? NOW you can go to Home Depot! Bring a buddy and a pick-up truck if you have one. The wood is long and awkward and it’s easier to do a project like this with two people.

We bought “common boards” rather than “select pine boards.” They’re cheaper and if you’re just going to stain them anyway, it doesn’t matter. Just make sure they’re all straight and not wonky and wobbly down the sides. You’re also going to whack them up to give them a “rustic” look (more on that in my next blog post)!

Here’s my husband measuring the the common boards at Home Depot.

Bring a measuring tape with you when you go to buy your wood because the boards are not uniform. If the board is supposed to be 1X6X10, for example, it’ll never ever ever be exactly that size. That’s the size it is at the lumber yard. Once it gets sanded down and made to look like the very pretty pine seen above, it loses some of its girth. Most of the supposed 6″ wide boards we looked at were actually 5.5″. That’s okay as long as you know that and you’re prepared for it. You want all your boards to be the same dimensions or else your beam may not fit the way you had hoped it would.

Here’s an infographic from that explains this concept:

Nominal vs_ Actual Board Sizes.JPG

We learned that Home Depot will not “rip” your boards for you (cut your boards length-wise). This was bad news for us because the underside of that awkward lip in our house is 4.75″ wide.

Our 6″ wide boards are actually 5.5″ meaning that we wouldn’t be able to nail the side boards directly into the awkward lip because the bottom board holding them together would be too big by 3/4″.


See how this wouldn’t fit? If we tried to fit this “C” shape up there to cover our awkward 4.75″ lip, we would have empty space on each side.

The very clever Home Depot guy helped us come up with a crafty solution! We bought 1X2x10 pieces of “strapping” to nail to our awkward strip. Since the 1″ is actually 3/4″, it SHOULD work perfectly and we’ll be able to nail into that instead of into the awkward lip to make up the difference. I know that’s confusing. Hopefully the picture below will help.


Perfect! Now the width of our awkward strip will be equal to the width of our 1×6 boards (which are actually 3/4″x5.5″ boards). Clear as mud? Great! Are you starting to see why I divided this up into three separate blogs? Geesh!

There was no need to buy strapping for the entire length of our house since we will be nailing our faux beam into it and you won’t be able to see it. Since we bought two 10 foot pieces of strapping, we cut them into 12″ strips and divided them up evenly across the length of our house.

Okay! It’s time to cut your wood with the mitre saw. Make sure you measured correctly and go ahead and make your cuts.

Our project requires some odd cuts due to the fact that we are trying to make it look like it’s cutting through various parts of our house. I’ll leave out the boring details of how we cut all our boards. Yours will be unique to your house anyway and will probably be going across your ceiling with no interruptions. Here’s an example of one of those odd cuts:


Hopefully you see what we’re trying to do! Make sure you tune in next week for my second post in this three part series which will teach you the best way to age your wood, nail it together, and stain it to get that nice, rustic feel.

Good luck!Jamie

5 Easy Steps to Paint an Exterior Door

Take a look at this house. What do you notice right away? Don’t say the dead grass in the front lawn…that’s still a work in progress 😉 What I see right away is a white door on a yellow house. Yuck! Okay, I know what you’re thinking…“That door would look so much better painted red!” Wow, I thought the same thing so I did it and wrote a tutorial for you in case you want to paint your front door as well!


What you’ll need:

  • Dish soap, warm water and a sponge
  • Painter’s tape
  • Indoor/Outdoor primer
  • Exterior latex paint
  • Sandpaper
  • A screwdriver to remove door hardware
  • A foam brush and a foam roller
  • A razor blade


You need to start with a clean door so the paint will stick correctly. If the door has oil, grease, grime, or even bugs stuck all over it (ours did), the paint will either not stick to the door or it will look sloppy. I used dish soap, warm water and a sponge. Nothing fancy.

Sand down any bumps on your door to get a smooth finish. Our door had sticky stuff from a wreath hanger on it so I had to scrape it off and sand the uneven spots.


It is not necessary to remove the door from the hinges. I used a foam roller and foam brush rather than a paint brush and found that there were hardly any drips.

Make sure you remove the doorknob, the deadbolt, and anything else that may get in your way of painting. The hardware is easy to remove so don’t try to tape it off and paint around it. You’ll inevitably get paint on it.

As you can see in the picture below, I taped off the window panels. I did this by making the strips of tape longer than needed and then used a razor blade to cut it to the exact length once it was on the door. In hindsight, I shouldn’t have taped it. When I removed the tape, it took some of the paint off with it and it didn’t look right. I had to re-paint the inside pieces of the window panels. There are many opinions on the internet about whether you should tape off the window panels or just paint them and scrape off the excess paint on the glass with a razor blade. Having done both in this situation, I would recommend not taping the glass and simply scraping off the excess paint once the paint has fully dried.

Make sure you tape the weather strip on the bottom of your door. This strip is not meant to be painted and will flake and crack over time if you apply paint to it. Additionally, you’ll want to tape off the strip on the inside of your door (where your dead bolt slides out) and on the side of your door where the hinges are. It’ll help keep everything looking neat and clean (see picture in the bottom center below). Don’t forget to put a drop-cloth under the door just in case you drip paint! You can see mine in the photo on the bottom left.


It doesn’t matter if your door was white to begin with…you should still prime it! Make sure you buy a priming paint that is safe for EXTERIOR use. The primer creates a rough, sticky surface for the exterior paint to adhere to. Our door is a fiberglass door but you can use primer on pretty much any surface. Be sure to apply the primer using the exact same method I outline below for applying the paint. Wait an hour for the primer to dry completely. Once you’re sure it’s dry, you can go ahead and put on your first coat of paint! WOOHOO!



I chose the color “Positive Red” by Sherwin Williams. Their Emerald line of paint is considered top of the line for exterior use but they do not sell it in quart size. Therefore, I bought the next best choice which was their Resilience exterior paint. One quart was plenty for three coats on my door. In my opinion, a semi-gloss or even a gloss finish will look the best. It’ll hide imperfections and fingerprints much better than a flat or satin finish will. With that said, I did my door in a satin finish. Do as I say, not as I do.

I  recommend using a 4″ foam roller and a foam brush (available in a pack of 10 for $1 at the Dollar Store). It’s important to apply the paint with a foam brush/roller because a paint brush will leave brush strokes all over your door and if you’re like me, that would drive you INSANE.

There is a method to painting an exterior door and it really makes a difference. If you don’t follow this method, I guarantee you will be unhappy with how your door looks.

  • Use the foam brush to paint around the four panels FIRST. If your door has a window panel like mine, paint in and around that too.
  • Next, use your foam brush to paint along the left and right strips inside the door (the side of the door where the hinges are and the side of the door where the deadbolt comes out…see photos below). After that, use your foam roller to paint the four rectangles in the middle of the door.


  • Finally, use your foam roller to paint the four horizontal panels of the door and then the two vertical panels. By painting WITH the wood grain (or faux wood grain in my case), you’ll notice the paint job looks much more professional than if you were to paint against the grain.

IMG_8881 (1)

Let it dry for an hour or two and put your hardware back on the door. Call it quits for the day. You’ve done a great job but the night air needs to do the rest! They tell you to wait 24-48 hours in between coats for a reason. It’s important not to rush a job like this. Repeat step four if additional coats are needed.


The most tragic thing you could do is paint your door and be done with it. You just did so much work! Don’t you want people to see it!? Call attention to it with some flare! A few inexpensive tricks can make a huge difference. Add a kick plate, change out the hardware, and throw a decoration on there for less than $100.

Front doors take a beating. Add a kick plate for protection. Plus, it adds SO much charm! Black kick plates will cost you $50 or more so I bought a cheap aluminum kick plate on Amazon and spray painted it flat black with Krylon Exterior Spray Paint in Flat Black to match the new door hardware I bought. You’d never know the difference.


Speaking of new door hardware, I bought this Valhala set off of Amazon for less than $75 with shipping (it’s $129 at Home Depot). Check out the difference between the old doorknob/deadbolt and the new set!

We bought this star last year on a vacation in the White Mountains so we decided to drill it into the house above the door to add a little charm!


Finally, I needed a decoration for the door. I didn’t want to ruin my new paint job by putting a nail through the door, so I opted for a less damaging solution. I found a red, white, and blue ribbon (it was Fourth of July weekend) at the Dollar Store for, you guessed it, ONE DOLLAR! I tied some black ribbon through the back of the decoration and secured it to the top of my door with a thumbtack.

And there you have it! A simple solution to a dreary white door. Take a look at the before and after photos below and let me know what you think! If you’d like to receive emails automatically each time I post a new blog, feel free to sign up in the “follow” section on the right!

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DIY: How to Paint Vinyl Shutters

When we bought our house last year, we were pretty unhappy with the color palette. It was a brand new construction home with, you guessed it…absolutely NO charm or character. The house has pale yellow siding and had baby blue shutters at the time. It looked washed out. Every time we pulled into the driveway, my husband and I would say, “Ugh, I can’t wait until the day we paint those shutters black.”

Here are a couple pictures of the house when we bought it:

I set out to find the perfect black shutter paint. After some extensive research about the difference between spray paint and exterior latex paint, I ultimately decided on Sherwin Williams Exterior Emerald Paint. It it the top of the line for exterior paint and has a lifetime warranty. The only problem is that neither Sherwin Williams nor Benjamin Moore makes a vinyl safe exterior paint in the color black (apparently it warps if it’s black…go figure).

Disclaimer: You are free to paint your shutters whatever color you like but just know that if you do not use the vinyl safe paint on vinyl shutters and you paint your shutters black, they will warp and it will void the warranty since you used a color they tell you not to use.

Anyway, the closest to black that I could get was “Black of Night.” It is a very very dark blue but could be mistaken for black. I figured anything was better than what I currently had, so I decided to give it a try. I chose a satin finish since I didn’t want shiny shutters. Here is the paint can (notice the “vinyl safe” writing on the label).

My next step was to have my husband take all 20 shutters down for me. He was excited to do this project so I didn’t have to bribe him with food, but usually that works too. Be sure to check what kind of screws your shutters use before you start your project. Ours required a square drill bit so we had to make a quick trip to Home Depot to pick one up.

Here’s what the house looked like for a few weeks with no shutters. I actually think it looks a little better than it did WITH the ugly baby blue shutters.

When you take your shutters down, MAKE SURE YOU LABEL WHERE THEY CAME FROM! This step is very important as each shutter is drilled into your house differently and you’ll never be able to match the holes up yourself if you lose track of which window they came from. We had 10 windows so we chose to label them 1-10 for each window and A and B depending on whether it was the left shutter or the right shutter. We put a piece of tape that looked like this on the back of each shutter:

We also drew up a little diagram of the house so we would know where to place each shutter when we were finished:

It’s helpful to have a couple sawhorses on hand so you can lay your shutters over them while you paint. We didn’t have any so my handy husband made me two. Here he is building them for me:

Perhaps the most important step in this whole process is washing your shutters. Ours were new so they didn’t have years of build-up and dirt on them, but they still needed a good cleaning. Let them dry in the sun for a few hours or let them sit overnight in a dry place before you start painting. There is no need to wash (or paint) the backside of the shutters. Use some sort of rag (I used a staining pad) to wipe off any debris that has made its way back onto the shutters before you paint each one. Here I am washing the shutters with some dish soap, a bucket, an old rag, and our garden hose.

You’ll need to paint all your screw heads to match your shutters. Each one of my 20 shutters had six screws for a total of 120 screws. My husband stripped a few of them when he was taking them down, so we had to buy a few more from Home Depot (never hurts to have some extra on-hand just in case). I needed to find a way to get all 120 screws to stand upright so I could easily paint them. My sister-in-law had a genius idea to use a flower arrangement block from Michael’s. I got a four pack for about $3 with my 50% off coupon. It worked like a charm! I just used a little water color brush to paint three coats onto the heads of the screws.

Next you’ll want to get a 1″ or a 1.5″ angled brush to do your painting. I like to use these paint brush covers to keep my brush wet in between painting. Three coats of paint on 20 shutters took me about a week and a half. By putting my paint brush into this plastic holder in between paint sessions, I was able to pick up where I left off without having to wash my brush in between. This saves A TON of time. It’ll keep your brush wet for days!

Finally, I was able to begin painting! When painting vinyl shutters with a faux wood-grain, it’s important to paint WITH the wood-grain. You want to make sure your brush strokes follow the natural grain in the “wood” so your paint job doesn’t look sloppy. Trust me on this one. It makes a huge difference. Here I am with my sister-in-law painting while we listen to some NeedToBreathe on Pandora 🙂

Here’s a side-by-side comparison of a shutter with the original baby blue and one with the new color:

This picture clearly shows why I needed to do more than one coat. You can see the original baby blue color peaking through. EW!

After three coats, it’s time to put them up! Make sure you wait four to seven days before hanging them. With that many coats, the shutters will be tacky and might scratch if you don’t allow them to fully dry. Here is my wonderful husband once again being a good sport and helping me with this project.

Here’s the final result! I think it looks SOOO much better! Feel free to comment below and let me know if you found this tutorial helpful. Next step is to paint the door red. I’ll be sure to post a tutorial on that as well!

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Before and After:




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